Saturday, May 25, 2019

Milano -- Learning About the City

Traveling is all about the connections you make with people along the way.  Today we connected with two wonderful Milanese friends, Marco and Silvia, who have a close connection to Central Oregon (which we just learnt today) and who showed us their city as only locals can.

Marco and Silvia are the good looking ones
Back in 2008 Marco and Silvia's daughter Camilla attended Sister High School.  She knew our kids.  She stayed at with our good friends Bill and Tracy Anthony in Sisters, and they all became good friends with Rod Bonaker and Maret Pajutee.  Maret introduced us via email but we did not know about the Sisters connection until we met today at Piazza Muscova.  Small world.

Together with their son Peter and another cycling friend we had a wonderful day of exploring the amazing parts of a city that we could never hope to find on our own.  Here's a small bit of it

La Scala -- the famous opera house


Learning about the municipal structure


The sculpture in front of the stock exchange.  In the US we have a bull.  In Italy, a fuck you
sculpture by a Catalonian artist.  We love the sense of humor (or is it perspective?)
We saw the best churches that you don't find on the beaten path.







And learned the history of each, and the nuances that you could never learn without local knowledge

St. Ambrosia.  The tower on the right is presbyterian,  On the left, catholic.  My tower is
bigger than yours...
And had a great Milanese meal at a small trattoria

Peter, Silvia, Marco, (forgot your name, sorry), me
What a fantastic day.  Thank you ever so much Marco and Silvia!

Thunder storms this afternoon but we're anxious to get on the bike tomorrow morning to head north to Lake Como.

Until then, 

Buona sera

Friday, May 24, 2019

Milan. Getting Settled

We flew from Frankfurt into Milan's Linate regional airport.  It is small, but much closer to town and we figured that it would be faster to get into the city.  It is always a challenge to get the bike boxes from the airport to town.  There is no Metro that runs from Linate, so a taxi would be the best bet.  But most taxi drivers ran away when they saw our boxes.  Most of them say "no, no, it is not normal."  I suppose so.

So we connected with a guy who said that he had a grande-sized van.  He did have a big van, but his price was grande, too.  We negotiated a bit, and Lorie really laid on the guilt thing and worked the guy over, but he wouldn't budge.  So we paid his ransom and loaded up.

Held hostage by a guy with a big van for our big boxes
Oh, he was a nice enough guy and he knew a quick way into the city so it wasn't so bad.  But I did have to show him how to take the head rests out of the seats so that he could rest the box on top of them.  No discount though!

We are staying at a B n B in the center of town.  It fronts onto a big street with street cars and lots of traffic and we were a bit worried that it might be pretty noisy.  But the B n B has a big central courtyard and once we entered from the street the noises disappeared and we were overwhelmed with the sweet smell of jasmine that is growing everywhere.  Nice.  Just mid afternoon, we decided that the best way to head off the tiredness that was overtaking us was to busy ourselves with putting the bike together.  It was a snap:

Putting the beast together on our veranda
I guess that many years of doing this make the job easier.  In no time, the task was done so we headed to the market to get something to eat and to wander around the neighborhood.  Milan is a big, cosmopolitan and commercial center.  There are more people here than in Camp Sherman.  Did you know that?  We wandered for a while, forcing ourselves to stay awake until at least 2000, but at 2001 we were out.

Very interesting apartment building
The weather is very nice and the next morning the second B part of "B n B" proved to be very nice.  More Germanic than Italian -- meats, bread, cheeses and coffee.  Over breakfast we met our fellow guests, a couple from Toronto and a couple who now live in Brisbane but say that they are New Zealanders despite where they live.  Very nice folks who gave advice on things to see, what to avoid.

We have the day off so did more exploration, this time with a 2 day metro pass.  We hit some of the big tourist sites -- the Duomo and the Galleria

The Duomo.  It is very crowded with tourists but an amazing church.  We did pay the modest charge to look in side and it is pretty amazing if you don't think about it too much.

The Galleria, just katty corner to the Duomo. 

An intricate cast doorway to the church
Both Lorie and I had read about the Navigli neighborhood in Milan -- the canal district.  We mentioned it to our fellow B n B guests but they said to avoid it.  That sounded like good advice so we headed straight to it.  We haven't seen much of Milan, but the Navigli is the highlight so far.  A bit gritty but a ton of character.

They have gondolas in Milan and the canals were designed by Leo da Vinci.


There are tons of small restaurants and we found a place that had great boards, so we put life on hold while we chowed


Lunch.  Dinner.  For the next few days...



Like most big urban centers, Milan has a very efficient metro system.  After our significant lunch/dinner we rode the subway back to our B n B.  We are going to find a negroni to cap the evening off then catch up on some more sleep.  Tomorrow we are meeting some friends who we have not yet met (thank you Maret) -- they live in Abbiategrasso just outside of Milan and tomorrow they will show us some of there favorite things.

A great start.

Ciao.