Ride Day 9: Firenza to Terranuova

After a few days in Firenza we'll be ready to get away from the teaming hordes and back into the country.  Our route takes us in a generally southeasterly direction into the heart of Tuscany on small back roads.  Now that we're out of the mountains our daily rides will be a bit shorter.  If you think about it, that makes no sense at all.  But we're taking it easy for a few days to enjoy the rolling Tuscan hills and the wine that awaits us.

 But still, there is some serious up in the profile above...

We asked the guy who rented out our apartment where we should go for a typical Florentine dinner but with no tourists.  He recommended a little out of the way place that was outside of the safe zone and we headed there.  Cibreo had outside, sidewalk seating available so that’s where we sat.  A Belgian woman sat with us because space was limited – Greta – and we enjoyed great conversation and really good food.

Food first.  We started with a chicken liver pate.  Not what I would usually order, but our waitress was not to be denied.

Cibreo -- stop by if you're in Florence

Our server had strong opinions about what we should eat and who
were we to disagree?

Chicken liver pate

Unbelievably good mushroom soup

Gateau, ragout and parmesan

 Then Lorie had mushroom soup and I had a “gateau” with ragout and parmesan (the gateau was some kind of polenta and it was really nice).

We finished things off with rabbit for Lorie and some kind of slow cooked beef “stew” for me.

Rabbit stuffed with sausage and potatoes

Beef stew with lentils

Greta

Greta was on holiday from her home in Brussels where she works for the EU.  Trained as a lawyer but working on social issues for the EU, we talked long into the night over coffee and some wine.  We enjoyed her company.

We left the crowded streets of Florence early this morning before the temperature got too very high – the forecast was for low to mid – 30s.  Florentine drivers are like drivers everywhere else who want to get to work and not be bothered with a bike.  So we were pretty careful while we worked our way out of town.  It was nice to get into the country and it didn’t take long before the rolling Tuscan hills appeared.  We rode mile after mile of narrow winding roads nestled between olive orchards and vineyards.  The scenery is exactly what you’d think the Tuscan hills look like.  It is gorgeous.  And while the rolling hills are shorter climbs that those in the Alps and Dolomites, they pack some punch as we had several sections that were 17% gradients.  Those hurt.

Tuscan hills

Rose Festival time in Oregon, just roses here

An olive orchard

Olives everywhere

It doesn't look very steep but it is

Heat will be a challenge the further we get into Tuscany – it was really warm by the time we got checked into our BnB that is about ½ of the way between Florence and our southernmost destination, Montelpuciano.  The host of the BnB said that we absolutely need to ride up to the ancient hillside village of Loro Ciuffenno that is about 7 km up the road from our place.  It was a great suggestion.  The village is sleepy, especially in mid-afternoon heat, but it is very pretty.  Here are a few photo

Clock tower

A river runs through the village

The bridge with its unusual arch dates back to the 8th century

Looking up toward our BnB from across the garden

Our BnB is great tonic to the noise of Florence.  It sits in a ravine with a stream running just below the terraced gardens.  The only noises we can hear this evening are a waterfall and birds chirping.  We should sleep well tonight.  And we are anxious to get to the serious wine country tomorrow.

Until then,